Saturday, January 16, 2021

Canoeing the Rio Grande

 

With strong paddle strokes, we propelled ourselves up the Rio Grande toward Santa Elena Canyon. The clear, turquoise water lulled us into believing it would be an easy paddle, but a few minutes upstream, we realized we were in for a challenge. The water was so shallow in places that we had to get out and drag the loaded canoe up and over the rocks. After an hour or so, we entered the Santa Elena Canyon and disappeared into the shadowy expanse of the 1,500 foot tall rock walls. The air temperature was in the high 40s and the water was VERY cold (from recent snow melt), so our feet were soon painfully cold from the frequent dunking as we stepped out and dragged the canoe along.

 

The water looks misleadingly placid. Between the shallow water and the fast current, we had a hard time paddling upstream through many areas. 

 

Entering the Santa Elena Canyon (above)


We continually admired the geological features, like this natural amphitheater, along the route.



After arriving at our campsite, we explored Fern Canyon. As we climbed up through the rocky, desert environment, we couldn't imagine how it earned its name. But look! Water seeps through the rock wall, allowing this patch of ferns (and a few others) to enliven the landscape.


A campfire took the chill off the evening air, and we were able to stay up late, watching stars appear one by one. Soon complete darkness fell, and the Milky Way glowed overhead.

Morning light on the canyon walls

 

 
We were quite content to "go with the flow" downstream the next morning. Mike steered us skillfully through a few tricky spots, and we gratefully exited the shadowed walls of the canyon and entered into the full desert sunshine. From there, we relaxed and enjoyed the experience of straddling the US/Mexico border for another 7 miles to our takeout spot at Cottonwood campground.

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